Monks drinking beer, dogs playing poker, and a castle fit for Disney…

Good morning.

Today, a German word born in Munich’s art market… for the pictures everyone buys and the critics despise.

Let’s begin.

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The Word for Art Everyone Buys

Le Mot Juste—“Kitsch”

M unich. The 1870s. Bavaria’s capital is booming. Factories and banks have made a new class of families rich, and they want art on their walls to prove it.

The painters of Munich are happy to oblige. They turn out pictures that are easy to love… Alpine sunsets, rosy peasant girls, and jolly monks raising tankards of beer.

The dealers sell them fast and cheap. And in the studios, painters begin to use a sharp little word for this kind of picture.

Kitsch.

Nobody is quite sure where it came from. The likeliest root is a Bavarian dialect verb, kitschen, meaning to smear, or to scrape mud together from the street. A related verb, verkitschen, meant to sell something off cheaply.

In other words, kitsch was art made quickly, sold cheaply, and loved easily.

“Kitsch is vicarious experience and faked sensations.”

Clement Greenberg, “Avant-Garde and Kitsch,” 1939

At the very same moment, and in the very same kingdom, a young king was building the grandest fantasy of all. In 1869, Ludwig II of Bavaria began a castle on a crag in the Alps, a dream of the Middle Ages with modern plumbing. This is what he built.

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Neuschwanstein Castle, Bavaria
Neuschwanstein Castle, Bavaria, begun in 1869. Photo: Wikimedia Commons.

It is called Neuschwanstein, though Ludwig never used that name. He never saw it finished either. Ludwig died in 1886 with the scaffolding still up, and the castle was given its name only after his death.

Critics have often called it the greatest piece of kitsch ever built. Millions of visitors simply call it a fairy tale. Since 2025, it has also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

That tension is the whole story of the word. Kitsch is not bad art made by bad artists. Often it is skilful art made to please, with every rough edge sanded away.

The word crossed the Atlantic, and so did the thing itself. In 1903, an American illustrator named Cassius Marcellus Coolidge began painting a series for Brown & Bigelow, an advertising company that printed calendars. This is the most famous of them.

Cassius Marcellus Coolidge, A Friend in Need, 1903
Cassius Marcellus Coolidge, “A Friend in Need,” 1903. Public domain.

Look under the table. One bulldog is slipping an ace to his partner with his back paw. Around them, the big hounds puff on pipes and squint at their cards.

It was printed on calendars and posters for decades, and critics never took it seriously. Yet in 2015 the first of the series, Poker Game from 1894, sold at auction for about $658,000.

In 1939, the American critic Clement Greenberg gave the word its most famous intellectual workout. His essay “Avant-Garde and Kitsch,” in the magazine Partisan Review, cast kitsch as the enemy of serious modern art… pre-digested feeling, sold to people who wanted culture without effort.

Then the art world changed its mind, at least partly. In 2013, Jeff Koons’s Balloon Dog (Orange), a giant steel sculpture shaped like a party balloon, sold at Christie’s in New York for $58.4 million… at the time, a record for a living artist.

My first apartment in the city had a large framed print of a Venetian sunset. I loved it, and I took it down whenever my colleagues came over. It took me years to see that the embarrassment told me more about my taste than the picture did.

If you want to see how far the poker dogs have travelled, their story is a small history of American taste: Dogs Playing Poker →

The word began as studio slang for cheap pictures in Munich. Today it hangs in castles, on calendars, and in auction rooms.

Kitsch, it turns out, was never about the price. It is about what we are willing to admit we love.

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Three Things Worth Knowing

I Literature Kundera’s Definition

In The Unbearable Lightness of Being (1984), the Czech novelist Milan Kundera turned kitsch into a moral idea. Kitsch, he argued, is the refusal to admit that anything ugly or uncomfortable exists… the smiling parade, the perfect family photo. For Kundera, who had lived under communism, it was the favourite style of every dictatorship. A soft word with a hard edge.

II Criticism Camp

In 1964, the American writer Susan Sontag published “Notes on ‘Camp,’” an essay about a taste for things that are so exaggerated they become delightful. The difference is worth knowing. Kitsch is sincere… it really means its sunset. Camp is knowing… it loves the sunset precisely because it is too much. Use “camp” when the wink is part of the pleasure.

III Design The Garden Gnome

In the 1870s, in the small town of Gräfenroda in Thuringia, the potter Philipp Griebel began making clay gnomes for gardens, inspired by local folk tales. They spread across Europe and then the world, and became the most famous emblem of suburban kitsch. The Griebel family workshop in Gräfenroda is still said to make them by hand.

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Curious & Controversial

◆ Nobody can prove where the word comes from. The Bavarian kitschen is the favourite theory. A popular alternative says it began when English-speaking tourists in Munich asked for cheap “sketches,” but most scholars now reject that story.
◆ Was Neuschwanstein the model for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty Castle? The link is repeated everywhere. Disney’s designers drew on several European castles, so it is best treated as one inspiration among many.
◆ Is Jeff Koons a genius or the king of kitsch? Critics have argued about it for nearly forty years. Koons himself has often said he wants viewers to accept their own taste without shame.
◆ Ludwig II spent so heavily on his castles that his ministers had him declared insane in June 1886. Days later he was found dead in Lake Starnberg, and the cause has never been settled.
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Connoisseur’s Diary

Worth Seeing This Week

Neuschwanstein is visited only on a short guided tour, but the throne hall and the singers’ hall are worth the climb. Go and decide for yourself… fairy tale, or the finest kitsch in Europe?

Where: Neuschwanstein Castle, near Hohenschwangau, 87645 Schwangau, Bavaria. Tickets from the Ticket Center Hohenschwangau.  Tickets: €21 regular, €20 reduced; under-18s free but still need a ticket. Online booking adds a €2.50 fee.  Insider tip: Same-day tickets are sold only at the Ticket Center from 8 a.m. and often sell out early, so book online or arrive at opening.  Tickets and admission at neuschwanstein.de →

Worth Reading

The Unbearable Lightness of Being — Milan Kundera (1984). A love story set around the 1968 Prague Spring, and the novel that made “kitsch” a word for serious people.

Explore Further

Read: Dogs Playing Poker →, the full story of Coolidge’s series and its sales.

Browse: Bavarian Palace Administration →, the official history of Ludwig II’s unfinished castle.

Tonight’s Quiz

1. In which city’s art market did the word “kitsch” first appear?

A) Vienna

B) Munich

C) Paris

D) Berlin

Answer: B. Painters and dealers in Munich used it in the 1860s and 1870s for cheap, popular pictures.

2. Who wrote the 1939 essay “Avant-Garde and Kitsch”?

A) Susan Sontag

B) Theodor Adorno

C) Clement Greenberg

D) Harold Rosenberg

Answer: C. Greenberg’s essay in Partisan Review set kitsch against serious modern art.

3. Which novelist called kitsch the refusal to admit that anything ugly exists?

A) Franz Kafka

B) Milan Kundera

C) Umberto Eco

D) Vladimir Nabokov

Answer: B. Kundera made the idea central to The Unbearable Lightness of Being (1984).

If the links above don’t respond in your email app, just reply with your answers—I’ll write back.

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Everyone owns something kitsch. The connoisseur is not the person without it… it is the person who knows exactly why they love it.

Tomorrow is Friday… we gather up the week, from a stolen smile in Paris to a castle built for a king’s fantasies.

Until tomorrow,
Charles T. Mayfair

Editor, Connoisseur Daily

P.S. It rhymes with “pitch,” and the adjective is “kitschy.” A handy rule for dinner: kitsch is sincere, camp is in on the joke. Mix them up and someone at the table will notice.